From Blueprint to Runway
Take a look at these two images.
Source (left): In The Folds. Source (right): Live Home 3D
Do you see similarities? What are they?
When looking at these photos, there is a point to be made about clothing and architecture as one and the same.
This article is inspired by the German architect Gottfried Semper's theory of “Bekleidung,” which means “clothing” or “dress” in English. Essentially, Semper’s idea is this: the outermost layer of a building is like an article of clothing. The decorative and surface elements of a building are fundamental to its aesthetic and symbolic meaning; analogous to the way that clothing functions as self-expression and to adorn the body, rather than simply a functional layer. Clothing encases the body in a more intimate, personal way, while architecture encloses the body at a more removed distance.
Going back to our hunter-gatherer origins, the first huts and fences were made of woven fibers. Nomadic tribes wore woven cloth and animal furs, and used these items to construct tents. Shelter and clothing were made from the same craft– weaving. In his book Der Stil (1860-1863), Semper wrote "the beginnings of architecture coincide with the beginnings of textiles.”
To highlight this similarity in craft, he drew attention to the shared etymology for the German word “wand” (wall) and “gewand” (garment).
All of this is to say that clothing and architecture have been intertwined since the beginning of humanity, and their existence is still enmeshed today.
A key concept in architecture are the “principles of design”:
Balance: The distribution of visual weight in a structure, achieving a sense of stability, whether through symmetry or asymmetry
Rhythm: The repeated use of elements like lines, shapes, or colors to create a sense of flow and cohesion within a design.
Emphasis: Drawing attention to a specific part of the design to create a focal point or highlight a particular feature.
Proportion/scale: The relationship between the sizes of different elements, ensuring they work harmoniously and suit the human scale.
Movement: The visual guidance or flow that leads the viewer’s eye through a space, often directed by lines, shapes, or pathways.
Just as these principles guide the design of architectural spaces, they also play a crucial role in fashion. In fashion, balance creates harmony between shapes and silhouettes. Rhythm can be seen in patterns and repetition. Emphasis directs attention to key features, whether it’s a statement piece or accessory. Proportion and scale ensure that clothing fits the body in a way that feels natural and aesthetically pleasing. Movement guides the eye through an ensemble, helping the viewer appreciate how each piece interacts with the body. These design principles are as essential to fashion as they are to architecture, shaping the way we perceive both.
To further draw out this example, here are three architectural styles that appear in fashion design.
A. Brutalism
Image (left): The Chuvash State Opera and Ballet Theater in Cheboksary, Russia. Source: Artem Petrov Wikimedia.
Image (right): Bunche Hall, UCLA. Source: UCLA Library Archives
“Brutalism” comes from the French word “brut” meaning “raw” or “untreated.” It is a modernist architectural style hailing from England in the mid-20th century, emerging in post-World War II Europe. Characterized by its blocky, raw concrete aesthetics, and heavy, oppressive presence, Brutalism was a quick and cost effective way to mass produce buildings. Brutalism reached its zenith in the Soviet Union, aligning itself with socialist ideals; simple, utilitarian design stripped of any bourgeois decadence.
If you want to see Brutalist architecture up close, UCLA’s campus is a great place to start. Take a walk through the Court of Sciences, or make your way to Bunche Hall to see examples of this style of architecture.
Original photography by FAST at UCLA. Photography by Daniel Cheng and Angelina Kim. Wardrobe styling by Miguel Luiz, Gabriel Taylor, and Joseline Nunez. Makeup by Karen Park. Production by Alex Collins and Pink Manka.
One designer comparable to Brutalism is Rick Owens, and most notably in his early work from 2003-2019. This period of design was focused on practicality, and many of his early fans appreciated the way Owens’ design naturally accented the wearer’s body. Through the use of architectural silhouettes, draped forms, and muted color palettes, his work redefined luxury through raw, unconventional materials and subversive designs. Every piece had a deliberate plainness and crudity, yet an undercurrent of utility and wearability. Similarly, Brutalist architecture is meant to be functional and visually pleasurable at the same time.
Source: Rick Owens.
B. Gothic Architecture
Siena Cathedral, Siena, Italy. Source: Luca Florio, Unsplash.
Cologne Cathedral, Cologne, Germany. Source: Cologne Tourism.
Gothic architecture originated in Europe from the mid 12th century to the 16th century. Dripping in dark elegance and intricate detailing, Gothic buildings are easily identified by their large, vaulted, and cavernous look. The style was inspired by the religious intensity and mysticism of the time.
Alexander McQueen’s fashion mirrors Gothic architecture in its drama and intricacy. His designs invoke awe with sharp structures, dark romanticism, and meticulous detail. Like cathedrals, they explore beauty, decay, and transcendence. Both draw on the interplay of light and shadow—McQueen through flowing fabrics and textural contrasts, Gothic architecture with stained glass and pointed arches. Historical references infuse his work, blending the past with futuristic visions. Each piece becomes a statement, turning clothing into a haunting yet exquisite art form.
Images courtesy of (left to right): The New York Times, Artsy, and Fashion Network.
C. Postmodernism
Postmodern architecture is characterized by its eclectic, mind-bending, colorful style, first appearing in the 1970’s. Postmodernist architecture evolved as a reaction against the grim, monotonous, and austere forms of Modernist architecture built in the first half of the 20th century. Throwing tradition to the wind, Postmodernism was playful and theatrical, through the use of funky shapes, color, and alternative materials.
Following the pivotal events of World War II, the Civil Rights and Feminist movements, and the Cold War, the world had entered a new period of social, cultural, and political change. Riding the coattails of these fundamental shifts in world-view, Postmodern designs celebrated diversity and freedom of expression.
Image 1: Temporary Powell Library in 1992, UCLA. Source: UCLA Magazine
Image 2: De Piramide Housing in Amsterdam. Source: dans le gris
Image 3: The Binoculars Building, Google’s Venice Campus in LA. Source: dan le gris
Vivienne Westwood’s fashion echoes the playful, eclectic spirit of Postmodern architecture in its bold use of color, form, and texture. In the 70s and 80s, her work with the punk movement– using safety pins, torn fabrics, and provocative slogans– subverted traditional norms. The punk movement championed individuality, non-conformity, and an anti-establishment prerogative. It was an abrasive yet freeing form of self-expression for those who took part, a postmodern “stick it to the man” attitude that became mainstream.
Westwood blended historical references with modern, rebellious elements, designing corsets and tartans that mixed the past and present in a playful, irreverent way.
Image one courtesy of V&A Museum. Image two courtesy of Artlink Magazine.
In conclusion, the bond between architecture and fashion is not just a coincidence—it’s a vibrant, living connection that has shaped the way we experience both. From the woven fibers of our ancient shelters to the daring, boundary-pushing designs of today, architecture and fashion have always been intertwined. Whether it's the raw energy of Brutalism, the dark elegance of Gothic architecture, or the playful rebellion of Postmodernism, designers continue to draw from the architectural world to push boundaries and make bold statements.
